ritu kumar design philosophy

In the last six months alone, there has been an aggressive push to grow, with eight new franchise appointees in places as diverse as Dubai, Mauritius, Siliguri, Ghaziabad, Guwahati, and Vadodara. You walked away having learnt something, says Rodricks. Among others, a lot of Ritu Kumars work showcases work and textiles such as Jamdani and Tangail. In many ways, that defines Ritu Kumar the designer. For the best experience on our site, be sure to turn on Javascript in your browser. India's premier luxury lifestyle women's magazine, Conscious Couture: These Contemporary Labels Are Driven By South Indias Community Effort Towards Sustainable Living, The Position of Party Office is that of Queer Anarchism: A Conversation with artist-curator Vidisha-Fadescha, Two women, separated by four decades. The thing about a Ritu Kumar outfit is that its classic to the point where you can wear it to your own wedding, someone elses wedding, as well as at your daughters wedding, says Zaveri. Hence, slowly we experimented with fabrics, jerseys and textures. But if the designer name is big enough, there are takers despite prohibitive price tags. Paoli Dam's stunning cocktail party wears. Her enterprise as an Indian designer began nearly 40 years ago in Kolkata (then Calcutta) in West Bengal. Let's work together to keep the conversation civil. Although Ritu Kumar is almost synonymous with Indian traditional textiles and fashion, her personal journey in fashion has evolved over the years to meet the expectations of different generations from across the globe. Today her brand has grown to retail through ninety three stores across the country. An impressive number of winners have emerged from amongst these contestants putting India on the beauty map. To succeed as employers of the future, leaders will need to walk the talk and pivot their business model and organisational design in time. But, as Tahiliani says, You cannot judge her [Kumar] just by the size of her business because as the first great revivalist designer of our times, shes had the most impact and is a person driven by a very different purpose of craft and morenot just numbers.. the people, the processes, and the techniques. JavaScript seems to be disabled in your browser. Despite it coming with all the trappings of a family business (Kumars husband helps run the export business), Amrish Kumar sees it as a thriving commercial enterprise that he has to grow. You can change your city from here. THE HALO EFFECT IS a term thats used in marketing to explain why customers choose a particular product because of a good experience with another product from the same company. Managing director of Brand Ritu Kumar, Amrish Kumar is all set to respond to the new demands created post-pandemic with their new launch Label Basics. People find it easier to step into a mall where they can explore multiple shopping options as opposed to visiting an independent store as a destination. She lived in Delhi later where she graduated in 1964 from the Lady Irwin College. Fashion, says Kumar, is almost organic. And thats why a Ritu Kumar piece is different things to different people; it could be a block-printed saree, a satin lehenga, or a ghagra with zardozi embroidery. Its well documented how Kumar studied prints and textile history, visited museums in Britain, took photos of what struck her, brought them back home, and translated those into fashion history. (Unlike fashion shows these days, which are largely 15 minutes of loud music and movie stars, shows then ran for as much as 90 minutes.) On the other hand are Indian traditional outfits, equally expensive, but without the designer tag. Shilpa Shetty on fashion, her new film with rohit Shetty, upcoming releases and more, Bollywood actors and their comfy airport outfits, Breeze through summer with these trendy dresses, Terms of Use and Grievance Redressal Policy. Theres the gloss of the high-profile designer, sure, but under it is a definite connect with ground realities. FASHION FOR WOMEN in India is somewhat fraught. It is the block printing done by skilled thirdgeneration craftsmen from villages near Howrah. To buy a copy, visit Amazon. Kumar also has far fewer stores65 to Dongres 291. Besides the Padma Shri award, she has also received the Achievement Award in 2012 at Loreal Paris Femina Womens Awards and the Indira Gandhi Priyadarshini award for her role in the development of the fashion industry. Your email address will not be published. In Kumars world, however, fashion is multiple chapters of the 12th-century poet Jayadevas Gita Govinda infused onto fabric. He says his father threw a fit because it cost over Rs 1,800, which was a price to balk at back then, particularly for just one outfit! For many years, Ritu Kumar has designed and dressed the Miss India pageant winners on international pageant platforms such as Miss Universe, Miss India, and Miss Asia-Pacific. Verve Magazine, 2022. Claimed to be the first designer to introduce boutique culture in India, Ritu Kumar is one of Indias finest fashion designers. 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Most recently, she was awarded the Achievement Award at the Loreal Paris Femina Women's Awards. Known as the first designer to add the word contemporary to Indias bridal couture, Ritus work has matured beyond textile crafts. It is a very competitive environment, but I think we are keeping our heads well above water. Its patrons include Indian stars such as Aishwarya Rai, Priyanka Chopra, Lara Dutta, Dia Mirza to name a few and international celebrities such as the late Princess Diana, Mischa Barton, Anoushka Shankar. The problem with the Ritu Kumar brand is that its not a big draw for the younger crowd. The praise continues. We do have stand-alone stores for more exclusive brands, but people come there for a specific reason and it is not that casual., Design process Shes the first to have done pret bridal wear; to bring craft to the cities; she is an inspiration. Rodricks echoes that. In the past couple of years, they have added manpower (eight management-level professionals, including the COO and head of online business), upgraded processes, expanded to 65 stores (from 34 before), and boosted revenue by an average of 25% annually to Rs 200 crore this year. Uncheck box to unsubscribe from receiving Emails & SMS on latest promotions, styling tips, trends & SALE offers. Ritus business started from humble beginnings and it is amazing to see where her handwork and determination has landed her today. Since Ritus company was founded on the patronage of craftsmen, the company has played an instrumental role in providing jobs to people living in the undeveloped areas of India. Except, says the inimitable Ritu Kumar, it all started in a one-room makeshift store in an apartment near a railway crossing in 1969. Whether it is presenting traditional textile art forms in a new way on traditional garments or traditional art forms on Western clothes, Ritu Kumar has continuously refreshed her line in many ways, while keeping the cultural flavor and heritage of India alive. The legacy of the craftsmen and their ancestors interspersed with Ritu Kumars own legacy are made known through this campaign. Then a rookie in the fashion world (he had just returned from Paris where he had studied fashion designing for two years), Rodricks remembers being fascinated by Kumars Tree of Life show, which included the history and technique of crafts like kalamkari and chikankari. We had to create silhouettes which were our own and which worked with our climate, but at the same time werent restricted to a certain age group or occasions. Ritu Kumars list of patrons includes the whos who of India. The sale, while it netted Kumar a good chunk of change to play with, also brings its own concerns. Designer Tarun Tahiliani remembers his sister wanting to buy a Ritu Kumar outfit when he was getting married 32 years ago. One of her many firsts, she reminisces about hand-block printing at Srirampur. Ritu has a very refined understanding of ancient designs that she painstakingly translates into the modern bridal couture of today; all thanks to her background in museology and art history. She went off to the US in 1966 to acquire higher education from New Yorks Briarcliff College. Your subscription is confirmed for news related to biggest developments in health, medicine and wellbeing. A Ritu Kumar piece, in many ways, is a state of mind. Over the years it has patronized several organizations working in these areas and helped in developing skills and taking them to the market. Her clothes actively reflect the rich embroidery heritage of India, whether in their motifs, type of stitching or the elements used in the embroidery. He explains: The Chinese and the Japanese to some extent may have abandoned their ethnic fashion roots in exchange for a slew of grey and black suits made by European labels but that is not true of India. Please enter your email address below to receive a password reset link. Mrs. Kumar's understanding of ancient designs and the innovative use of traditional crafts has created a new classicism. Every time I go into a textile area, it is an adventure and a discovery. I see myself as an editor of new collections, she says. She is all about deep relationships cultivated over decades; he wants footfalls and store count and presence in the right malls. Several international celebrities have also worn and praised her work. From these humble beginnings, she has transcended to owning 35 high-end stores across 14 cities in the country. Chevalier des arts et des letters (knight of the order of arts and letters) is a prestigious award that has been bestowed on Ritu Kumar by the French Government for her revival of traditional crafts. That means needing to have an eye firmly on profit and margins. Ritu who began her career in 1969, started with just four hand block printers and two tables in a small village near Calcutta. Dior accused of ripping off traditional Chinese skirt. A weekly guide to the biggest developments in health, medicine and wellbeing delivered to your inbox. The discerning connoisseur is asking tough questions about how responsibly luxury products are manufactured, leaving brands little choice but to embrace sustainable practices. At 40, he has a finger on the pulse of the new generation. In 1998, she received two awards; the Outstanding Women Entrepreneur Award by PHD Chamber of Commerce and the National Institute of Fashions Lifetime Achievement Award. Though I have women in their 70s who wear our tops with jeans when they are travelling, my real target clientele is the young, Internet-savvy crowd., Kumar accepts that standing out in a sea of innovative brands is indeed difficult. Although our craft received a lot of appreciation, we realised that we had to make our brand more accessible to the millennials and not restrict ourselves to the bridal segment. Having established a strong textile aesthetic with her brand and name in the 1960s, her endeavour years later a decade ago was to see if it could travel to the Gen Next and their lifestyle. To go with the outfits are several modish accessories such as sling bags which again prominently popularize Indian forms of textile crafts hewn onto leather. In 2002, Ritu launched her companys sub brand called LABEL in partnership with her son Amrish Kumar which targeted the foreign and local fashion markets alike with their traditional yet contemporary fashion oriented outfits. She has been credited with the ushering of the boutique culture in India. Today the company is renowned for its distinctive use of colors, quality of fabrics, intricate embroideries and a gloriously rich Indian aesthetic. Its only nod to snobbery was the fact it was in South Delhi. One of them is the Padma Shri Award she received in 2013 for her distinguished services to the Indian fashion industry. In 2000, she was awarded the Kingfisher Group of Industries Lifetime Achievement Award. The premise of this clothing line is to resurrect traditional Indian crafts and integrate them into mainstream fashion. Thank you for subscribing! (At least thats the impression given to the world outside.) Harshbeena Zaveri, vice chairman and managing director of NRB Bearings, (15 on this years Most Powerful Women list) says she got married in a Ritu Kumar ensemble some 30 years ago. In 2012, she won the Femina Womens Award by LOreal Paris. You wont see Indian woman in India donning Goth or punk rock fashion styles, he says. Indias retail environment was in the right place for us and we decided to raise capital. It has been a learning process, Kumar points out. The companys choice of its latest brand ambassador, Nimrat Kaur, the 35-year old award-winning actress who found fame in the critically acclaimed film The Lunchbox, is telling. She invited some designers, but says the only one who came for it was Ritu Kumar. We are a far more indigenous, organically evolved brand which comes from India., While globalisation came with its pros and cons, an accessible and comfortable shopping environment is one of the good things it brought along with it and Kumar tapped this opportunity by finding and propping Label in a well-curated environment Palladium. Be advised that all items from your shopping bag will be removed on changing the location. As mentioned earlier, Ritu Kumar was one of the first female Indian designers credited with bringing boutiques to India along with being the face of traditional Indian textile craft forms complemented by the typical Indian color palette. In 1999, Ritu wrote a book on the history of Indias textile and art designs titled, Costumes and Textiles of Royal India. Mehta says there are only two Indian designers who have risked filling the void in womens fashion: Ritu Kumar and Anita Dongre. Ritu Kumar, has also been awarded the Padma Shri Award 2013, the country's fourth highest civilian award for her exceptional and distinguished service in the field of fashion, textile and craftsmanship. Of course, we have different views and we come from different generations, he says, when I ask if his ways are vastly different from his mothers. Where Kumar focussed on natural fabrics and handcraft, her son pushes predictive analytics and man-made fibre. In 2002, the company launched a sub-brand LABEL Ritu Kumar. Those works represent an emulsification of design, the totality of which can manifest in a single product. Please Click Here to subscribe other newsletters that may interest you, and you'll always find stories you want to read in your inbox. And Kumar is also busy with her upcoming project a travel book on textiles, which will also contain paintings created by the designer herself, reflective of places she has travelled to. Her background in art history and museology has inspired her line of clothing designs and ensembles. KUMAR IS AN INSTITUTION. We made many mistakes but each of them taught us something, and we found solutions. The carnage on Wall Street has impacted cryptocurrencies the most, with a number of them seeing a price erosion between 85% to 100% from their all-time highs. A Christies expert gives us a first-hand peek into his artistic mind. What makes Ritu a strong force to be reckoned with in the quite competitive bridal couture market is her ability to create refreshingly modern silhouettes by incorporating traditional textures and embellishments making her collections feel like a breath of fresh of air. Shes bullish about the prospects of her business: Theres no limit to how much people now spend on clothing, and regularly, she explains when I seek reason for her optimism. Over the span of her career, she has been bestowed with many other honors. Check your child's IQ: How many ladders are needed to reach the top? Shes the designers designer; her eponymous label is what Indias Whos Who wears. Ritu Kumars roots and the history of her current empire reflect her investment into preserving the traditional Indian crafts and respect for the craftsmen who have been given the knowledge of execution of these crafts. A self-described art history student who began her adventure as a textile researcher, Kumar is aware that she is widely acknowledged as being the pioneer of womens fashion in India. Born in Amritsar, Punjab, Ritu Kumar is a native of Delhi. By subscribing to newsletter, you acknowledge our, Find out about the latest Lifestyle, Fashion & Beauty Trends, Relationship tips & the buzz on Health & Food, Copyright 2022 Bennett, Coleman & Co. Ltd. All rights reserved |, Dressing down stylishly is central to our work from home philosophy, Israeli fashion designer Alber Elbaz dies of Covid-19, Heres why your child should definitely be a part of Cadbury Gems Junior NFT, Prabal Gurung's first-ever bridal collection is visually arresting, Delhi Times, Aurangabad Times, Maharashtra Times, Dressing down stylishly is central to our work from home philosophy, You are now subscribed to the lifestyle Newsletter. Follow us on Facebook, Twitter, YouTube & Instagram to never miss an update from Fortune India. Innovations are a big part of Ritu Kumars fashion dialect. From that tiny room in Defence Colony to 65 stores spread across the country (with a couple abroad as well), from four or five block-printers in Calcutta and one designer (Kumar herself) to more than a dozen designers in the country plus more from abroad, from one eponymous label to three Kumar has left her mark on Indian fashion.Over the years, she has also collected many awards, including the Padma Shri. Ritu Kumar is the largest & most respected designer-wear brand in India today. The accepted Western notion of designer fashion revolves around signature products: Coco Chanels little black dress, Giorgio Armanis classic business suit, Valentinos red dress, Burberrys trenchcoat, or Christian Louboutins red-soled shoes. 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Well before it became a political statement, Kumar pushed her idea of make in India. Different times, same lives., How Ritu Kumar Made Her Brand Accessible To Youngsters With Label Ritu Kumar. The necessity to be fresh does not wash away the desire to revisit the grassroots. This is aimed at the young, global Indian woman with a contemporary lifestyle. Why children of immigrants earn more than those of US-born, Explained: Why SC upheld more powers to ED, Pakistan has no future unless it controls its population, How pictures of piles of cash shook Mamata's TMC, We have sent you a verification email. The younger generation had more or less stopped wearing saris, at least in the day time. Without capital, growth in retail is much slower due to the capital-intensive nature of the business.. The prices are also more in tune with the younger crowd, starting at Rs 900. He says they have managed to create a supply of products that are aspirational without being intimidating, and at a variety of price points . Ritu has won many prestigious awards throughout her career. Over the years, Ritus business has grown exponentially and work issold in over 35 outlets throughout India today providing livelihood to hundreds of artisans.

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