new york times portugal travel

Squirreled away on the Terraos do Carmo, Topo Chiado is an open-air lounge serving cocktails to tables overlooking the castle and the neo-Gothic, wrought-iron Santa Justa Lift. With attractive Art Nouveau architecture and prime locations in plazas, parks and scenic overlooks throughout the city, these popular kiosks are natural gathering points from sunup to sundown. The rustic tiled floors, wooden accents and stone walls make it look as if its been around forever, but it opened in 2014 and has had the locals lining up for its well-executed Portuguese cuisine ever since. Up the stairs at A Vida Portuguesa youll find colorful, nostalgic Portuguese products, from notebooks to cans of sardines, all with retro-style packaging intact. Grab a coffee and pastry at one of the citys myriad confeitarias and save room for an early lunch. Confeitaria Serrana, a family-run bakery for over 40 years, serves the citys best bola de Berlim (1.10 euros, or $1.16 at $1.06 to the euro), a dose of custard sandwiched in a sugar-dusted roll. The White Box House (Rua de Santa Catarina 575; the-white-box.pt; doubles from 50 euros, including breakfast) is within walking distance of the city center. Clinging to his arm like a koala was Beatriz, his two-year-old granddaughter, the youngest resident of Vilarinho Seco. Residents of Vilarinho Seco sing and drink after a religious procession. It is a system based on self-sufficiency, where residents eat what they grow, bake their own bread (often in their villages ancient community oven), step on grapes from their orchards to make wine, and slaughter hogs to make sausages and ham which they smoke above their kitchens fireplace. The ham and sausages from the pigs will feed them throughout the year. The town square of Melides features a post office, a small cafe, a newsstand, a funeral home and a butcher shop, along with a collection of small tables where locals gather to pass the hours. The rooms off the stairs are home to an exhibit documenting the history of the 18th-century towers inhabitants and architects; the adjacent church (included in the admission fee) is also worth a look. In the Portuguese capital, a weekends worth of seafood feasts, chic rooftop bars, undulating streets and landmarks, both Old World and futuristic. Isolation has made the traditions here particularly rich and diverse. Maria Emilia da Silva kneads dough to bake bread for her family at the villages community oven in Covas do Barroso. Forget Lisbon as the budget capital of Europe. Eventually, the companies were forced to delay their plans and produce a detailed environmental impact report for their projects. Follow New York Times Travel on Instagram, Twitter and Facebook. For a feast of seafood petiscos (Portuguese tapas), reserve a table at Peixaria da Esquina. But today the Portuguese capital is better known for its red-hot culinary scene and fine cultural institutions, including a new world-class museum on the waterfront. I was back again in the afternoon, with my wife and daughters, after the sun finally warmed the cool morning air. On the third floor is a hugely impressive collection of cameras from every decade, including some fabulous espionage cameras from the 60s, 70s and 80s that are disguised as rolls of sweets, cans of Pepsi and packets of Marlboros. Nelson Gomes tends to his cattle at his small property in Covas do Barroso. The plaza on which the cathedral sits leads to a perfect view over the sea of picturesque red-roofed houses that slope down to the river. Paulo Pires watches his son play with his dogs as they watch over their sheep near his house in Covas do Barroso. Situated in the final home of the bespectacled author, the site is a treasure trove of Pessoas early 20th-century works most published posthumously including poems written under three well-developed heteronyms. Everyone knows this can hardly last: rich people descending on a pristine rural community in search of their own piece of nature and solitude. Rio Maravilha, a new fourth-floor hangout in the resurgent LX Factory area, offers dazzling views of the Tagus River and the 25 de Abril Bridge. Covas do Barroso, some 15 minutes south of Vilarinho by car, sits at around 2,000 feet above sea level. Add to that a bottle of Tejo tinto and some Portuguese sheeps-milk cheese for dessert, and a satisfying dinner for two is about 50 euros (cash only). Anyone can read what you share. Its now dealing with an outbreak of around 30 cases. In 2018, the United Nations Food and Agriculture Organization included the distinctive region on its list of Globally Important Agricultural Heritage Systems. It was among the first European sites to receive such designation. If theres a line outside A Cevicheria, a popular Peruvian restaurant opened by the chef Kiko Martins in 2014, order a frothy pisco sour and wait its worth it. This area has a network of sandy trails that extend from the coast miles into the countryside. Stunning 18th- and 19th-century buildings, new indie bars and restaurants and a laid-back vibe, facilitated by the excellent wine its hard to find anything to dislike about Porto. Touriga Vinhos de Portugal is another worthwhile stop, offering samples of three ports for five euros and a good selection of Portuguese wines. He seemed to have something to discuss with everyone who walked by. Opened in 2015 by the acclaimed chef Vtor Sobral, this low-key restaurant on a quiet corner of Campo de Ourique serves fresh-caught seafood raw, cured, marinated, grilled you name it. This cozy, narrow bar opened a few years ago with crowded tables, an emerald-tiled bar, and a variety of Portuguese craft beers try the Klsch from Lisbons Oitava Colina brewery. Not a single hotel or resort, just the occasional snack shack and during the day, a few lifeguards supplied by the regional government. Melides also served as a great launching point for day trips throughout the Alentejo region, including Comporta. The beachside Sal restaurant in Carvalhal along the Alentejo coast of Portugal has become a jet-setters hangout. https://www.nytimes.com/2018/04/19/travel/36-hours-in-lisbon.html. Its smoky and crowded inside Candelabro, but you wont find relief on the sidewalk, where patrons congregate, bottles of Super Bock beer (1.60 euros) in hand. The news brought about fierce opposition from residents. They talk about the jobs that will be created, but they dont realize that those are much less than the livelihoods that will be destroyed.. Mr. Louboutin, in an interview, confirmed that he plans to change that with a boutique inn near the village center. My first stop was at the village of Vilarinho Seco, considered one of the best-preserved examples of the traditional architecture of the Barroso, with houses made of rustic stone, often with a shed for the animals on the ground floor, ornate granite granaries next to them, and public water fountains lining the streets every few hundred yards. Anyone can read what you share. A delightful trend thats ramped up in Porto is petiscos, the Portuguese version of tapas. A Porto landmark, the twin-towered cathedral, S do Porto (free admission), is a gorgeous amalgamation of architectural details from multiple centuries, beginning in the 12th. Then move on to the marinated dishes, like citrusy salmon with passion fruit, ginger and cilantro (9.60 euros), followed by Sobrals superlative version of amijoas Bulho Pato a steaming bowl of plump clams seasoned simply with lemon, garlic and more cilantro (17.50 euros). Most of the pastures where they graze are either collectively owned by the village or located on the areas wild mountainsides, much of which, he said, might be affected or destroyed by the mine. Paulo Pires holds a newborn dwarf lamb at his barn in Covas do Barroso. The region faces other threats, too. Ancient Catholic rites have combined with the cultural vestiges from the many other peoples who, over several centuries, have found their way to the region: Visigoths, Celts, Romans, the soldiers of Napoleons army. The young dont want the heavy work in the fields anymore.. The building dates to the 18th century and held prisoners until the Carnation Revolution in 1974; grills still cover the windows. Order a porto tnico white port and tonic and head to the roof where dazzling views span the Tagus River and the 25 de Abril Bridge, a doppelgnger of the Golden Gate Bridge. We got as far south as Zambujeira do Mar, a coastal village near the bottom of the Alentejo region. His first Porto venture, Cantinho do Avillez, draws tourists and locals for its creative dishes that combine techniques drawn from molecular gastronomy with the ingredients that define Portuguese cuisine. Through interactive exhibits, engage with the poets language: Im beginning to know myself. A pristine stream courses through it, and seemingly every house has an orchard full of grapevines and persimmon trees. Grapes, rice, wheat, rye, oats, olives, honey, asparagus, walnuts, berries, truffles, mushrooms and many other kinds of vegetables are grown or produced in the region, which is known as Portugals breadbasket. We spent an afternoon at a large organic farm, Herdade Aberta Nova, that welcomes visitors (including families with young children) to its compound, which includes a vast collection of peacocks, pigs, horses, donkeys, chickens, goats and other farm animals. For more al fresco night life, venture west to Rio Maravilha, a new fourth-floor hangout in the resurgent LX Factory area. Life here was very hard. Ascend the elegant staircase, which is circled by a flock of yellow stuffed parrots, to explore the maze of rooms that recently displayed Lenny Niemeyers fashionable swimsuits, orange-trimmed Panama hats from Frescobol Carioca, bars of Rios Q chocolate, and exquisite polished-wood armchairs designed by Srgio Rodrigues. A short walk from the station are two establishments patronized by Portos sweets-loving citizens. Be sure to explore the hauntingly atmospheric 14th-century Gothic cloister (3 euros), with its exquisite stonework and decorative azulejos. He has his own oceanside house here. As I saw the billboards, big box stores of Lisbon, the car dealerships, I realized we had crossed some kind of threshold to return to the contemporary world. As one of Portugals rock star chefs, Jos Avillez is a household name. The daily menu scribbled on a large blackboard and patiently explained by servers recently included wasabi-spiced oysters, bright mackerel tartare with seaweed and crunchy dried shrimp, and a flavorful pile of matchstick potatoes and local trumpet mushrooms. The menu lists over 50 varieties of gin and tonic, served Spanish-style in bulbous glasses. The land there, which once belonged to the King of Portugal, has been owned since the 1950s by the Espirito Santo family (Portugals equivalent of the Rockefellers), who, starting in the 1990s, began inviting some of their friends to the area, including Princess Caroline and Prince Albert of Monaco. It was on the drive back to Lisbon we went directly to the airport to fly home that I was reminded how disconnected we had been. Vilarinho is in one of the highest parts of the Barroso, at about 3,300 feet above sea level, in the middle of a windswept plateau. In the end, helpers are treated to a feast. His neighbor is Noemi Marone Cinzano, a countess and winemaker whose family formerly owned the famous Italian brand of vermouth. Other A-list homeowners in the area include Philippe Starck, the interior decorator and hotel designer; Anselm Kiefer, the German artist; and Jason Martin, the British abstract painter, who took over a cavernous former nightclub as his studio, and also built a home on the nearby hillside, where he is also producing wine. A local initiative begun in 2009 to revive the citys many abandoned quiosques de refresco (refreshment kiosks) is today a resounding success. Lunch for two, around 18 euros. Long stretches of this coast are permanently protected as national parks, and in other areas there are restrictions prohibiting any new construction near the beach. Women cook inside an old kitchen in Covas do Barroso while sausages hang overhead. One must-order dish is the transportive ceviche puro of white fish in lime juice with red onion, tigers milk and rich dollops of mashed sweet potato crowned with sweet-potato chips. And sign up for our weekly Travel Dispatch newsletter to receive expert tips on traveling smarter and inspiration for your next vacation. Thankfully, the GPS on my phone still worked, as I got lost once one morning on these unmarked trails. But even if it was good, what would I do with it? he said. The Barroso mountains, with the village of Espertina in the distance. Run by the knowledgeable and friendly Marco Ferreira and Clia Lino, Porto in a Bottle specializes in port from small producers. Instead of a sit-down dinner, try out a few of the newest places. The landscape is extraordinary and verdant, even in the dry months, Mr. Martin said. On the way, you pass a dazzling collection of reddish, weathered sandstones, which look like abstract sculptures. Routines here are as well-worn as the cobblestone streets. Established in 2015, this specialty coffee purveyor operates two cafes that serve traditional shots as well as cold brews, pour-overs and frothy cappuccini. We were there in the evening, to see the sun set as the beach faces directly west. For those who are more interested in sampling than shopping, Vinologia offers a choice of port flights (35 euros) that come with a short introduction to the many varieties. Mr. Pires is one of the few residents of Covas who raises sheep instead of cattle. An ideal day in Porto combines both the grandeur of its history and its very up-to-the-minute cool. Mile after mile after mile you can walk, uninterrupted. Start at the Graa Convent, whose tiled chapel and Baroque cloister opened to the public for the first time after recent restorations (free). Overwhelmed? As I turned away from the ocean, what could I see? After shopping, grab a drink and head to the deck chairs on the patio in the summer, or the picnic tables in front of the indoor fire in the winter. Cozy Trasca offers petiscos (the Portuguese version of tapas). I found myself drawn to the beach and not just for the traditional reasons. The Centro Comercial Bombarda doesnt open until noon, but this collection of small shops and restaurants on the gallery-thronged Rua da Bombarda is heaven for shoppers looking for boutiques crammed with goods from homegrown designers. Lunch for two, around 30 euros. Combine the two to make the frozen version of the citys signature drink, the porto tnico. At the onset of the coronavirus pandemic, with travel restrictions in place worldwide, we launched a new series The World Through a Lens in which photojournalists help transport you, virtually, to some of our planets most beautiful and intriguing places. The old canary-yellow trams still rattle along steep hills, and youll never pay more than a euro and change for a pastis de nata, the classic Portuguese pastry. In 2019, residents of Covas were surprised by the news that a mining company was awarded a permit, given by the Portuguese government, to extract lithium in the mountains surrounding the village. Nearly all offer tours, but its the views of Porto and the bustling Ribeira waterfront that are the most spectacular feature. Cork bark is cut every nine years by hand from cork oak trees in the Alentejo region. Agostinho Gomes, a farmer in Vilarinho Seco, prepares to let his cows outside to graze. Follow NY Times Travel on Twitter, Instagram and Facebook. Or try the pork loin sandwich, topped with melted local cheese (wine and small plates for two, around 25 euros). My first acquaintance in town was Elias Coelho, the patriarch of one of the oldest families in the village. Several of the beaches, including an area called Santo Andr, have natural lagoons, making its calm, shallow waters safe for young children. A Portugal of Pristine Beaches, Tiny Villages and Little Else, https://www.nytimes.com/2019/08/28/travel/portugal-alentejo-melides-atlantic-coast-beaches-villages.html. Vilarinho is considered the best preserved example of the traditional architecture of the Barroso. From its stunning Beaux-Arts station to its cool bars serving Portos signature drink, this charming city combines the best of old and new. Inside the bright, white-tiled restaurant, a giant foam octopus hangs from the ceiling above a handful of tables and bar seats around a horseshoe-shaped counter. A Portuguese flag billows atop a hill overlooking the village of Covas do Barroso. I have been traveling all my life and I have not seen a place in Europe that is this untouched, Ms. Cinzano, who built a rustic, seaside home here, said in an interview. I asked Jason Martin, the British painter who I visited at his studio, to describe what makes this area so special. Explore street view, find things to do in Porto and sign in to your Google account to save your map. Break here for a sandwich of black Iberian pork cooked for 12 hours and slicked with basil mayo, or a barbecued chicken sandwich with homemade pickles or French fries garnished with rosemary, and throw in a glass of wine for 2 euros. Related Article. In Portugal, as in Italy, coffee equates to espresso. Located in a former grocery store, Taberna da Rua das Flores has the well-worn atmosphere of an old Lisbon tavern, with tile floors, wooden chairs and marble-topped tables. Why would I want to leave a place like this?. After dawn, I would take a hike on the cliffs, some 200-feet high, overlooking the ocean you can imagine the view. Well, we are the ones who chose to stay and raise our families here. To gain some perspective on Lisbons undulating terrain, ascend the citys highest hill into the Graa district. Boticas, the other municipality, managed to make it into November without a single infection. The result is a historic building thats Instagram-worthy inside and out. What distinguishes this homey taberna is its innovative, market-driven cuisine. Afterward, on the steep descent, peek inside Surrealejos, a closet-size atelier producing surrealist tiles one series depicts an anthropomorphic panda that are a cheeky twist on Portuguese azulejos (traditional painted tiles). Another company won the rights to mine near the village of Morgade, some 40 minutes away. At Pastelaria Alca, a standing-room-only pastry shop that opened last year in a prime location in the bustling Chiado district, rows of those golden tarts are displayed alongside a variety of other so-called monastic pastries whose centuries-old recipes originated in Catholic monasteries and convents. But thats the goal of Casa Fernando Pessoa, a museum and cultural center in the residential Campo de Ourique neighborhood. You walk down a long pathway toward the vast expanse of the Atlantic. This week, Andr Vieira shares a collection of images from Portugal. Globally Important Agricultural Heritage Systems.. Housing a cafe-bar, gallery and shops selling everything from vintage furniture to artwork to colorful clothes and handbags by the Portuguese design brand Mexxca, this space has something for everyone. Children at play in the sand of Melides Lagoon in Portugals Alentejo region. Lisbons night life reached new heights when a wave of rooftop bars opened around the city. Meals begin with bread and butter flavored with Iberian ham; follow this with the steak tartare and fresh potato chips, or stewed gizzards. Let me try. I dont exist. Theres also a collection of portraits of Pessoa fittingly, in diverse styles including paintings by Jlio Pomar. I come from Brazil, but my great-grandfather grew up in a village in Trs os Montes before migrating to South America. In inclement weather, take cover at Cerveteca Lisboa, a quiet beer bar across the street pouring hard-to-find brews from Portuguese craft breweries, like Dois Corvos and Passarola Brewing. On Rua dos Caldeireiros, a handful of restaurants have recently appeared, of which Caldeireiros is the standout. Snapshots of Daily Life in a Remote Region of Portugal, https://www.nytimes.com/2020/11/23/travel/barroso-portugal-agriculture.html. The slaughter is a communal event, drawing the help of neighbors and friends. The main square of Vilarinho Seco, one of the oldest villages in the Barroso region.

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